Small things


It’s one of the oddities of French life that you can very rarely find spring onions (scallions to our American cousins). Partly this is due to the super-local and super-seasonal nature of the vegetables available, but even when in season, they show their faces for only a few days, before being superseded by larger, milder white onions.

So it is with positive glee that I pulled these beggars up from my first ever vegetable plot. It’s one of those small things that makes me happy – time for some rich, buttery, spring onion & chive mash, using the infamous Escoffier recipe (equal quantities of butter & potato).


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